The English wine industry produces only about four million bottles a year (Wallop) compared to eight billion from France. Unpredictable weather often produces low UK yields, but now the industry is being taken more seriously. Why?
Although France won 98 gold medals at this year's International Wine Challenge in London, English wines surprised many by gaining a coveted 2 gold medals against competition from 21 countries. Out of 367 bottles submitted, the Denbies Chalk Ridge Rose from Dorking in Surrey was voted the best in its class, dry in character and with a nose of "strawberries, fresh cut pears and cracked pepper and thyme" (Wallop).
The other UK gold medal winner on the day was from Chapel Down vineyards in Kent - a sparkling Rose Vintage Reserve Brut chosen for the recent Royal Wedding. These extensive UK sites are just two of over 400 well established British vineyards, yet they receive a mediocre press in many quarters. This is despite producing quality wines across the whole spectrum, including sparkling wines good enough to give the best of champagnes a run for their money.
English and Welsh wines use only grapes grown at home under rigorous control for the production of quality wines These are the real gems. The term "British wine" includes grapes grown overseas and bottled within the UK for the production of cheaper table wines and sherry.
Denbies is the UK's largest vineyard and its winning entry originated from the German rondo grape, an early ripener which benefited from the UK's warm early summer last year but survived the later cool and wet spell which hit most other UK vineyards. Other good vintages from Denbies include:
- Rose Hill 2007,
- Bacchus 2007 sparkling,
- Greenfields 2002 and
- Hillside Chardonnay 2006.
Chapel Down is Britain's largest producer and specialises in Champagne varieties, reaping the benefits of both the Kentish soil and climate. A new vineyard and visitors centre and restaurant at Chapel Down is well worth an extended visit (Johnson).
Strong choices include:
- Pinot Reserve Sparkling 2002,
- Rose 2007 and
- Bacchus Reserve 2006.
The Origins of English Wine
It is likely that Julius Caesar brought wine to England, but whether the Romans cultivated it or just brought it as extra baggage is not certain. By the time of the Norman Conquest, it seems more certain that vines were grown extensively in monasteries in the South and in East Anglia. When Henry VIII reigned, he did so with the support of about 140 vineyards, 11 of them owned by the Crown and 52 by the Church.
After this point, the industry declined. It may have been caused by the weather or the more turbulent consequences of Henry's dissolution of the monasteries. Thankfully, the noble art had not been entirely forgotten, and between the 17th and 19th century there was evidence of new vineyards in Surrey and South Wales, but sadly these fell into decline in the early 20th century and little was grown on a commercial scale until after the Second World War when a vineyard planted by Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones produced its first bottle in 1955. The revival had begun and continues energetically to this day (Barty-King).
Sources
- Harry Wallop (2011) The Daily Telegraph (UK) 18th May 2011. "British vineyard turns pink into gold."
- Hugh Johnson (2009) Pocket Wine Book. Mitchell Beazley.
- Hugh Barty-King (1989) A Taste of English Wine. Pelham Books.
Allan Johnson - With 26 years experience in the field of Education I enjoy sharing my interest in things scientific, whether they crawl, glow in the dark ...
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